Replies: 17 comments 56 replies
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Hi All- I'm excited to be part of the group. I'm Nick from the Detroit area. I spend most of my riding time on my mountain bike on a local trail. My road bike is approaching historical status, but still carries me around the nice local gravel roads. I have a RevMaster spin bike on which I plan to install the SmartSpin2k during the cold weather and for travel purposes. I hope to develop the community with install, doc, and testing help. Still interested in learning code, so following along the development of the software! -fireyeti |
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Done testing Nick! Ready to ship it out to you tomorrow! |
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Can't wait to try it out! I have a short term power solution in HR2VP which seems to be fairly accurate, just slow response to effort so not ideal for racing. Pedals are on my list! |
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I was actually thinking that functionality is something that could be added to this in the future since it has the ability to be paired to a HRM in addition to a power meter. Laggy, but yes, it would be better than nothing. Take lots of pictures and screenshots when you get it....I can't wait to see that documentation. You have no idea what you may have just gotten yourself into...lol |
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Definitely could be added. I don't know how tricky it would be to code that algorithm. Don't worry when I submit my horrible pictures you'll wish I never found your project!
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Your (completely assembled) kit was shipped. BTW, It's configured to grab any unconnected power meter or heart monitor on powerup, so if you'd like to pair those to something else, do so before you turn on the smart spin. Another little tidbit of information is the blue light provides some limited indications. A slow steady blink means it's waiting for a BLE client connection, steady on means it's connected, very fast flashing means it's updating (from github). |
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Hello, I'm from France, did a lot of trail running but my knees are now out of order... so switching to cycling ! I have a BH SB3 spinbike + PowerTap P1 (also have Assioma DUA if required...), and I would enjoy building that kind of remote! The tricky part is for me the hardware (3D printing...), but I hope to find the time to join and will contribute if I can help... As of today, I have an ESP32 I have never used :-) |
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You can actually just drag and drop them here in the discussion window and I'll add them. Thanks! |
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Hope this is clear enough ? |
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Looks great! I'll overlay your drawing quick and then upload it. Thank you! |
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Hi @sspieser , the knob is not an even sided object, and I'm not certain where your exact measurements overlay the photograph. Can you confirm the measurements across the distances I marked in this photo? The schematic is excellent otherwise! |
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Hello!
The measurement as your draw is 55mm !
Today I received the LM2596, things are going concrete...
Thanks a lot, Seb
Le mar. 22 déc. 2020 à 15:48, Nick B <[email protected]> a écrit :
… Hi @sspieser <https://github.com/sspieser> , the knob is not an even
sided object, and I'm not certain where your exact measurements overlay the
photograph. Can you confirm the measurements across the distances I marked
in this photo? The schematic is excellent otherwise!
[image: Top View]
<https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/76080977/102900829-d955c180-443a-11eb-92d5-ecb79269d8d4.jpg>
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Got it. Thanks! Files will be uploaded for @doudar shortly. |
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Charles from Melbourne here. Got a spin bike after discovering HR2VP, and came to this project via your comments after Ray's article. I'm most excited by the concept, but I believe SS2k should similarly offer estimated power from cadence, which would raise its popularity, especially since progress in pedal meters has been glacial. Further hardware simplication will be needed for a broad appeal. The PCB kit idea does sound great. But until there is a full database of bike models with associated "print to order" inserts, I wonder if silicone putty mods (e.g. Sugru) will be easier, as the standard kit can include a preprinted basic insert. I aim to contribute where I can in the coming weeks and months. Thanks all! |
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Hi Charles, glad to have you! I'm phasing in a new larger knob cup (V2) which fits over the top of all knobs we've encountered so far. With that version, using Surgru would work very well. It's a great idea! Check out Knob_Cup_Untested_Large.STL, into which the Sugru could possibly be directly molded. If the Sugru is permanent (I've never worked with it), or you need more texture, it would be easy to use an insert like Untested_Revmaster_Spin_For_Large_Cup.STL to mold the Sugru into. If you need any other insert designs (more facets for texture?), let me know. I'm getting pretty good at whipping them up quickly. The power from cadence is doable, but it's a pretty big multi-step project. We would need a few power readings (or estimates) across the resistance range at a few different cadences and then interpolate between them. Possibly this could be automatically trained with something like HR2VP, or a borrowed power source and then stored in a lookup table in spiffs. We'd also have to implement homing at each powerup (not a big issue, the stepper drivers already support it). I'm definitely open to it In the mean time, @fireyeti has reported that the SS2K actually works pretty well with HR2VP, even completing ERG workouts with it. I've been toying with the idea of adding in our own sort of HR2VP functionality. All of the basic elements are already in place, we just have to figure out the inputs needed and the best way to calculate it. Let me know if you need any help or would like me to put a kit together for you. Australia is a ways away so shipping could be expensive & long but I've got plenty of parts here and I'm sure we could work something out. |
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Thank you for the very encouraging feedback. I'm thinking of starting with a POC comparison of a custom print and Sugru mod. One issue I've already seen is in ordering components; local availability or shortages will lead to alternate suppliers; the variants might then not fit with the printed parts?? I'll be most glad to reimburse you for your help; though we should definitely set up a more sustainable solution for everyone. I think even integrating HR2VP-like functionality will be a major improvement over using the app; in iOS it has to stay in the foreground and therefore will lock out the device for the entire workout! This already sounds like a side project to which I can contribute. Back to work in not many hours! More on all of the above later this week. |
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The only part I’ve seen a lot of variance on is the stepper body length, but as long as it’s nema 17 and less than 38mm (I think that’s the number), it fits under the cover. The ESP32 devkit is a standard, so are the stepper drivers. What might help with the international crowd (let me know, I’m just talking out loud) is if I put links to the stuff on Aliexpress. I can put that on my short term to-do list. If you’re willing & able to start working on a heart rate to power function, I’d love it!!! Feel free to fork the project and mess around with it. All you need to start working on it is just the esp32 devkit. As a short head start, you can get the current heart rate from userConfig.getSimulatedHeartRate() and set the power with userConfig.setSimulatedHeartRate(powerInWatts) |
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Also, thinking about it, it would probably be worthwhile to explore GitHub for a HR2VP like app. I be someone has already figured out the bones of that problem. |
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Here’s a great resource: |
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Hello Anthony, The initial set up wiki mentions a build guide that I was not able to find, would you mind sharing it to me. Thanks! |
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Unfortunately, most of what we have for build documentation is currently on our main readme.md and helped a bit with the exploded cad video. It's the area of the project that currently needs the most help. Every time I personally start on documentation, other areas of the project demand my attention. This week I'm sending some parts to @fireyeti so he can document building the non-PCB version. That should help a lot, and he's much better with the documentation aspect than I am. Feel free to post as much as needed here in the discussion and we will all try to help you out as best as possible. The discussion should help others with their builds as well. Once you start work on it, it would be very cool if you started a discussion topic specifically for your build with progress pictures and such. Good Luck! I can't wait to see more! |
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Hey Anthony, I was looking for the components and Amazon.es for electronics lacks of items or prices are super high, so I end up checking on aliexpress.
What is the name of the socket to connect the power supply? I'm refering to the one on the first picture (IMG_7236.jpg)I could not find any online as I do not know the name :) Regarding the performance of SmartSpin2k, what is the latency or time to react and adjust the resistance on Zwift? I understand that code can be improved,(and hope to contribute) but do you face limitations on the electronic components? I'm thinking on the stepping motor. Thanks! |
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Response time is great. We only delay 700ms (worst case) from the time a BLE signal is received via a sensor until it is processed and forwarded to the app. Most power meters take about that much time to analyze so it seems negligible to me. The resistance changes received from Zwift are received and processed very quickly. The SmartSpin2k isn't a "torque monster". It provides a reasonable amount of torque and should move your knob from stop to stop on a magnetic bike and at least most of the way on friction based resistance bikes. You might have to clean and lubricate your bikes mechanism or loosen a tension adjustment to get optimum travel out of it. We did find one bike recently where the performance was unsatisfactory because the knob only required 3/4 of a turn to go from minimum resistance to maximum resistance and that just isn't enough mechanical advantage for this unit. |
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Hello Rodrigo! Thank you again for the AliExpress list, it will make things simpler for our international users! I have finshed the Instructable which @doudar set up and it's published here. Please let us know if you have any comments our would like additional clarification. As @doudar mentioned I'm planning to document a build of a non PCB board so hopefully there will be even more helpful information avaiable soon. Welcome and we look forward to your contributions! Nick |
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Good to know this, I'm more confident to speed up the build. My spin bike (Schiwinn IC8 - EU version of the IC4) has several turns to go from min to max. I'm not planning to keep the zwift subscription as I plan to ride outside with the good weather, so I need to hurry up :) Thanks for the details! |
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Esp32 is good - don't get the "yellow" option. Get the one with the fewer pins. I'd recommend the BigTreeTech stepper driver boards. The other brands sometimes have their UART jumpers in different configurations and that can take additional troubleshooting time to sort out. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000296898203.html The 38mm stepper motor is good. I think that's actually the size I'm currently using. I'll have to update the readme.md . The only issue you may run into is if it is too long, you might need to make or modify the top cover to be a bit deeper. In addition, the "optional" stuff you'll need is: 3.5mm stereo headphone connector (shifter connector) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000640677390.html 5.5X2.1mm Dc Power connector https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000694128319.html Stereo RCA-->3.5mm headphone "Y" Cable (Easier and cheaper than making my own "Y" Cables - cut off the RCA ends and attach the shifter buttons to them). https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000204275028.html 3mm screws to attach the stepper motor to the crossbar and case. 4 #6 X 3/4" (stainless is best) wood screws to attach the top cover. 2 #4 X 1/2" flat head screws to attach the ESP32 . Hot Glue to attach the access plugs to the shifter straps and to fix the TMC2225 in place. |
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Quick question about screws to attach the buck converter. I started by attempting to use the #4 X 1/2 and they were too big. I improvised a little with some old filament and hot glue (kinda made a rivet out of it), but I figured I would ask what everyone else is using as I'm building a couple more of these for friends and would prefer to screw it in if possible. |
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I've used some #4 or #6 x 1/4 screws on that before. Honestly it's untracked materials out of my screw bins whenever I've built the non-pcb version. I've also cut screws to length in the past as the plastic is pretty forgiving to malformed screw threads as long as the diameter isn't too big. Let me know if you need any edits to those mounts as it's been a while since I've done any updates to them. The PCB version just deletes the mounts so I don't look at them much as I've been more focused on the PCB version. Sounds like fun! Post some pictures of the progress when you can! |
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I think the mounts themselves are fine. The ESP one went in no problem. The TMC2225 fits fine and the glue should hold it. It was just the buck converter one was a little short for the 1/2" screw. You couldn't make it longer as it would interfere with the ESP board pins too much if its further out. As it is I had to slightly bend the gnd pin that the shifter is connected to to fit it in there. I'll take some pictures after I get the TMC2225 glued in and I confirm I haven't actually broken anything while mounting in the box :) |
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Quick note, I've recently noticed the the holes in the stepper crossbar are oversized just enough that it can get installed on the stepper improperly and provide enough room for the gears to slip when under load. This is fixed upstream by a 31 tooth gear that I'll put into the repo soon. So, the proper way to install the crossbar onto the motor is to make sure it is as close to the stepper axle as possible before tightening the two m3x8 screws. Also, best way to install the small gear onto the stepper shaft is to heat the gear slightly with a heat gun and it will then slide right on and lock in place when it cools. Pounding works too but probably hard on the motor bearings and occasionally a gear will split 😬. |
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Btw, here is the 31t gear incase you want it for your future builds. It's a little tighter meshing so you may need to adjust the crossbar opposite of the above procedure if you use it: |
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I've just begun my SmartSpin2K journey! I'm a software developer, both back-end and also mobile. I'm getting more into indoor cycling as a result of the pandemic and trying out both 'Zwift' and also Peloton Digital; my main motivation for joining this project is that there is no easy way to calibrate the absolute resistance on my spin bike; I'd like a reproducible way of setting an absolute resistance rather than reducing this to guesswork. I've already begun writing an iPhone companion app to aid in this quest, for displaying the resistance and also (hopefully) simulating 'Shift Up' / 'Shift Down' programatically over BLE.. ..have put some ideas into the discussion forum to see what we can make happen! |
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A quick thanks! I was using a Saris M2 trainer and swapping between 2 bikes for my spouse and myself. My wife wanted a spin bike for the feel/resistance it provides. I found your project, invested in a Schwinn IC4 and am now a SS2K v2 user. Thanks to eMadMan for providing the raw parts and guidance as required! PS - 2 coworkers are also running your SW as a BT hub when dealing with Apple TV. There is an "Idea" created requesting that a discrete Cadence sensor configurable and combined into the stream to Zwift. We are working on modifications to the code ourselves to do such...a bit more work to go. I think that there is a complete parallel market for a flexible BT/BLE multiplexer....which is part of what you have created. |
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Awesome! That's great to hear! Btw, we've just merged a major commit into develop if you want to check it out. I'd love it if you tested the binary on your ic4 before I push the OTA update. I'm always looking for more contributors so if you're team has anything to push back into this repo, I'm open to almost anything. Have a great day! |
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Loaded the build from today - the Debug page is not showing the same info |
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Sorry, I forgot to mention some the html files were updated as well. You could upload those manually (from the data folder) or reset to defaults and it will update them from the develop branch. Otherwise is it working correctly? |
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You can use the firmware update link on the webpage. Username and pass are both admin. Then individually upload each .html file in this folder. There's no need to reload the page between sending these files either: |
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Just be careful not to upload anything not in the data folder as it will rapidly fill up the file system on the esp32 and you will have to reset to defaults to wipe it clean again. |
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Can you provide more detail on uploading manually please?
…On Sun., Jan. 22, 2023, 2:58 p.m. Anthony Doud, ***@***.***> wrote:
Sorry, I forgot to mention some the html files were updated as well. You
could upload those manually (from the data folder) or reset to defaults and
it will update them from the develop branch.
Otherwise is it working correctly?
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Not having fun ;-> Uploaded the 13 files in the github directory provided.
REbooted after. White screens for all html pages. OTA page works - that is
the only one I can manually access.
I need to revert ASAP for an upcoming ride....
…On Sun, Jan 22, 2023 at 3:25 PM Anthony Doud ***@***.***> wrote:
Just be careful not to upload anything not in the data folder as it will
rapidly fill up the file system on the esp32 and you will have to reset to
defaults to wipe it clean again.
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Root cause - i attempted to download each file from GitHib via Save as.....and I unfortunately get the complete Github page. |
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Yah, if you upload anything with a different name than what's already on the file system, there's no way to remove it and if the file system is full, we can't write to it. The good news is the reset is pretty painless. Either do it from the settings page or hold both shifters during boot. |
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I cannot get a settings page - the html file is invalid.
I tried the 2 button hold down - now all settings are gone and even when on
th eSmartSpin2k SSID all the html files are invalid.
I must do a full factory reset of the device - clear all storage - and
build up again.
Note - the Troubleshooting/Factory Reset page on teh wiki - the image
showing the reset pins is missing -
https://github.com/doudar/SmartSpin2k/wiki/Loading-Software
Could you update the pic some time for clarity? Thanks!
CMc
…On Sun, Jan 22, 2023 at 5:08 PM Anthony Doud ***@***.***> wrote:
Yah, if you upload anything with a different name than what's already on
the file system, there's no way to remove it and if the file system is
full, we can't write to it.
The good news is the reset is pretty painless. Either do it from the
settings page or hold both shifters during boot.
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While the device is powered off, press and hold both shifters. Plug in the power cable. Wait 2-3 seconds and release the shifter buttons. This should force a reset of the firmware. Try that before going down the path of flashing over USB. If you need to go by USB, it's the Boot pin on the esp32 that needs to be pressed. Look at the front of the case, to the left of the bike mount - you'll see two holes. Lower one is the boot pin, upper one is EN. |
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Will the process you describe restore the html files from a known archive?
If not...it will not work because I pooched the html files.
…On Sun., Jan. 22, 2023, 6:02 p.m. eMadman, ***@***.***> wrote:
While the device is powered off, press and hold both shifters. Plug in the
power cable. Wait 2-3 seconds and release the shifter buttons. This should
force a reset of the firmware. Try that before going down the path of
flashing over USB.
If you need to go by USB, it's the Boot pin on the esp32 that needs to be
pressed. Look at the front of the case, to the left of the bike mount -
you'll see two holes. Lower one is the boot pin, upper one is EN.
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Any time you reset to defaults, the partition that holds the html files is erased. On the next boot, you will have to connect to the SmartSpin2k SSID and then on the webpage that shows up, enter the network credentials for your 2.4ghz network. Then hit save and then reboot. On the next boot, the SS2K will connect to your home network and automatically download the html files from github. |
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It should bring you back to a first boot state and ask you to connect to your home wifi network. After that, it will re-download the latest html files. Flashing by USB will bring it back to the same state Load the firmware.bin into smartspin2k flasher and select your esp32 Click Flash ESP |
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I follow the procedure, holding the shifter buttons for 3 seconds then
release. I know the buttons work because after the full boot, the motor
responds to shifts.
I goto the smartspin2k SSID. I receive a blank page. Here is the html
debug. Same situation if i modify the URL to settings.html
I attempted the boot button on the ESP32 - still comes up with SS2K FW and
still no html content.
[image: image.png]
On Sun, Jan 22, 2023 at 6:30 PM Anthony Doud ***@***.***>
wrote:
… Will the process you describe restore the html files from a known archive?
If not...it will not work because I pooched the html files.
… <#m_-7641882560942145147_>
On Sun., Jan. 22, 2023, 6:02 p.m. eMadman, *@*.*> wrote: While the device
is powered off, press and hold both shifters. Plug in the power cable. Wait
2-3 seconds and release the shifter buttons. This should force a reset of
the firmware. Try that before going down the path of flashing over USB. If
you need to go by USB, it's the Boot pin on the esp32 that needs to be
pressed. Look at the front of the case, to the left of the bike mount -
you'll see two holes. Lower one is the boot pin, upper one is EN. — Reply
to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#37 (reply in thread)
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Any time you reset to defaults, the partition that holds the html files is
erased. On the next boot, you will have to connect to the SmartSpin2k SSID
and then on the webpage that shows up, enter the network credentials for
your 2.4ghz network. Then hit save and then reboot. On the next boot, the
SS2K will connect to your home network and automatically download the html
files from github.
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After reviewing code - it looks like holding the shifters doesn't erase the partition, it only resets the settings - I'll add an issue for that. So to reset your partitions, you could either load via USB like @eMadman mentioned above, or Connect to the SS2K on the SmartSpin2k SSID, open a web browser and go to http://192.168.4.1/load_defaults.html Just loading that page will reset it to defaults and erase the partition. Remember to close that tab then otherwise your browser might try to intermittently reset your SS2K :) |
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I am able to flash the FW.....but the html pages are still blank.
(as stated before, I placed the wrong html files on teh device)
I would like more information on the EN button, the Boot button and what
each does....searching....
…On Sun, Jan 22, 2023 at 6:32 PM eMadman ***@***.***> wrote:
It should bring you back to a first boot state and ask you to connect to
your home wifi network. After that, it will re-download the latest html
files.
Flashing by USB will bring it back to the same state
Load the firmware.bin into smartspin2k flasher and select your esp32
[image: image]
<https://user-images.githubusercontent.com/24726844/213946324-9128568a-58b3-4897-b0ad-8b2f387f9a56.png>
Click Flash ESP
Press and hold boot pin. Release after you see flashing start (approx 3-5s)
If that doesn't work, restart the flasher utility and repeat - this time,
tap the EN button while holding boot pin
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Well....troubleshooting is over for a while...the device fell over while the USB was plugged in and ripped the USB jack off the PCB. Sigh.....all from attempting to load a fresh build and provide feedback, :-> |
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Yikes! Well at least you did find a bug on the shifter reset.... The good news is that if you have a working firmware onboard, you should be able to reset it using this link http://192.168.4.1/load_defaults.html like above ^^ You'll rarely use the USB port - Maybe @eMadman can work something out for a replacement for you...Thanks for your help, sorry about the accident. I've tried uploading everything I could onto a test board and I can't seem to duplicate your locked html files. |
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LOL - I do appreciate the humour! |
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Hello. |
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That is, adjust the driver for more microsteps. |
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Exactly. That way it should keep the background math more in line |
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Please let me know. 5 is 1/16, 6 is 1/32, 7 is 1/64? |
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It's directly the number. I believe the comment in the code is currently incorrect. See below from the tmc stepper library:
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So I'd try 8 or maybe even 16 |
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Hello everyone! I recently got SS2K for my Bowflex C6 and overall I'm very happy with it. Makes my training more enjoyable, especially when I don't have to worry about adjusting the resistance. However, it does glitch sometimes, I was following WiKis guide for setting it up for C6, and noticed when my wife spins, it often turns the knob to 100. Very annoying. She's a small Asian girl, and obviously she rides in low watts threshold, like 60 to 120 Watts, with 50-70 rpms. Are there any tweaks that I should consider? |
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My guess is it might have something to do with the low cadence. Below 70rpm, the algorithm for ERG isn't getting much information and so if she's doing an ERG workout, it might calculate a target point incorrectly. It would be interesting to switch up the cadence requirements, recompile and see if it has a positive effect. Try decreasing the following to 70 and recompile. SmartSpin2k/include/settings.h Line 273 in c75f2e3 |
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Awesome! Thank you for the tip! I'll do that and will let you know. |
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Awesome! Hopefully that helps. |
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